Monday, June 13, 2011

Second Planting

June 13, 2011

The weather has finally at least cooperated enough to start planting summer crops. So last Thursday and Saturday I double dug the rest of bed#2 and the rest of bed#3.  Figure 100 sq feet total.  It wore me out I can tell you!

Michelle and I also visited Naomi's  in Sellwood and bought about $70 worth of starts. The bill was actuall $90 but that included another 3 cubic feet of compost,  a 5 lb bag of sweet lime and a 50 lb bad of alfalfa meal.

Planted the following on Saturday:


  • spread 1 gram of Sweet Nantes Carrot seed
    • 10-21 days to grmination
    • 81%yield
  • 6 pack of Organic Lucious Sweet Corn (6")
    • 75 days
    • Bicolor
    • Hybrid se+ type
    • 7-8" ears
  • 6 pack of Red Selection Celery (4")
    • 100 days
    • stronger, more distinct flavor than regular celery
  • 6 pack of Maxibel French Filet Beans (6")
    • 35 days
    • slender 7" long stringless pods
    • high yields - pick frequently
  • 2 Black Beauty Zucchini (3")
    • The standard summer squash, introduced to U.S. markets in the 1920s. Compact everbearing bush plants are loaded with glossy green-black fruits with firm white flesh. Best eaten when under 8" long. Excellent variety for freezing. 1957 All America Selections. 45-65 days.
  • 1 Butternut Squash (4")
  • 1 Table Quenn Acorn Squash (4")
  • 2 San Morano Tomato plants (6")
  • 2 Roma Tomato plants (6")
  • 1 Sun Gold Cherry Tomato plant (6")
  • 1 Yellow Pear Heirloom Tomato (6")
  • 1 Coriandum Sativum Cilantro 
    • planted in pot
  • 2 Genovese Sweet Basil
    • planted in pot
  • 1 Amethyst Impaired Basil
    • 16"
    • planted in pot
  • 1 Fernleaf Dill 
    • planted in pot

10 foot run of Raspberries in the back. My compost pile to the left.
Front left is the corn. Middle are Maxibel Beans. You can't even see
the zucchini between the beans and corn! Bean seeds to the right
of the Maxibel beans (not germinated yet). Celery to the right.
Tomatoes. I dug a trench, threw in a handful of Lime and  planted them sideways.
The idea is that they will develop stronger root systems this way.


4 Boysenberries.  Those are Valencia Onions in the bed.
Front left, that leafy stuff, is Purple Peacock Broccoli
Valencia Onions. Red Cippolinni Onions. Purple Peacock Broccoli.
Green leafy stuff is Snowball Cauliflower. Back left are Schwiezer
Riesen Heirloom Snow Peas.


Caribe potatoes (front). Yukon Gold potatoes (back)

Lucious Corn.  Looks kinda pitiful but I think will be OK.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Potatoes are up

June 5, 2011

First signs of potato germination today. There were about 10 plants up.

  • Onions - healthy but not large
  • Raspberries -  booming
  • Boysenberries - healthy strong canes with blooms
  • peas - a little pale but healthy. 7"
  • Carrots - no sign of them. Didn't germinate. WTF?
  • Cauliflower - healthy but small. 4"
  • Broccoli - healthy but small. 4"
  • Apples - new columnar apples trees are doing great. Dark green leaves. Signs of fruit. Wahoo!
  • Broccoli in pots - HUGE. 20"
  • Peppers - weak. they are small (2-3"). Moved them outside. They need real sunshine and heat. It was 80 today. Maybe that will do it.
  • Lettuce and Spinach - healthy. average size. 4-5"

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Soil Temps slowly rising

June 1, 2011

From http://landslides.usgs.gov/monitoring/portland/rtd/temperature.php...


The average soil temperature is about 8 Celcius, or 46.4 Fahrenheit.  That means carrots should finally start germinating (I thought mine did but I think cold weather killed them).


From Wunderground.com



 ActualAverageRecord
Temperature
Mean Temperature53 °F61 °F 
Max Temperature57 °F72 °F94 °F (2001)
Min Temperature51 °F50 °F39 °F (1966)





Sigh.



Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Soil Temperature Data - When to Plant

May 17, 2011

I came across this while perusing the internet with my google machine:

Soil temperature data for the last 7 days is available at http://landslides.usgs.gov/monitoring/portland/rtd/temperature.php

Over the last 7 days, the soil temperature has risen to 5 Celsius, or about 41 degrees f. Why do we care? Well, because "How to Grow More Vegetables" provides a table of the desired soil temperatures for seed germination for each vegetable.  A few excerpts from the vegetables that you would typically sow from seed in your garden:

peas    40F (min)   40F-75F (optimal)
carrot  40F (min)   45F-85F (optimal)
onion   35F (min)   50F-95F (optimal)
lettuce 35F (min)   50F-95F (optimal)

Likewise, there are appropriate temperature ranges for optimal GROWING. Yesterday, the annual average temps are: (from wunderground.com)


May 17, 2011Max TempMin Temp
Normal (KTTD)69 °F47 °F
Record (KTTD)92 °F (2008)36 °F (1996)
Yesterday62 °F42 °F


Here are a few optimal growing temperature ranges :


tomatoes   65F-85F (70F-75F optimal)
onions       45F-85F (55F-75F optimal)
potatoes carrots celery lettuce parsley peas  45F-75F (60F-65F optimal)


Grow on!!

Spuds go in. Peas are up

May 17, 2011

On my last post for May 1 I neglected to mention one thing:  I hurt my back planting the apple trees. It wasn't a sudden sharp pain.  It was first a little sore and then tired and then REALLY sore.  Turns out I strained the muscles in my back, right behind my right hip.  This is all new to me. I have never hurt my back in my life. Fortunately, I have fully recovered after a 10 day rest period.  So from May 1 to May 11 I was out of commission. Well, sort of...

I still planted the onions on May 4 and replanted the onions on May 7.

May 8
Planted chives in one of the apple tree containers

May 12
Peas germinated today. Go peas.


May 14
Went to Naomi's in Sellwood and bought two bags of Teuffel organic compost and two kinds of seed potatoes:

  • Caribe (Pronounced Ka-REE-bay)
    • Lustrous purple skin covers smooth snow-white flesh. A great potato for boiling, baking, or frying. 
    • 2x4 in. Tender Annual
    • A mid-dry, oval shaped potato. 
    • Maturity: Mid-season 95-100 days. 
    • 2 pounds plants 20 row feet and yields 15-20 pounds
    • I planted 1 pound, or 20 pieces
    • planted 9" apart
  • Yukon Gold
    • yellow-skinned, yellow-fleshed potatoes ready to harvest in 100 days
    • 18-24 inches high
    • 12 inch spread
    • I planted about 1 pound (20 pieces)
    • planted 9" apart

I double dug another 10 foot long, 5 feet wide bed and planted the potatoes, first the Yukon Golds to the South and then the Caribe's to the North of that. I need to take some pictures!


Chili Pepper Update
So, a few things have happened with the chilis.  First, Big Jim didn't really germinate. I got one. Secondly, mu son's cat got into the utility room and the little bastard chewed the leaves off a few plants and flat out pulled up a few others!! Garr!

Nevertheless, on May 21 I pricked 10 planted and re-potted in potting soil.  I couldn't stick with the seed tray but it was getting moldy. It was just too wet.  I think the problem is that in order to keep the temperature up I had to keep water in the tray but that was water logging the soil.  So I transplanted them all and they all lived.  So, now they are in the same place, under a lamp, in 4" pots, and they are growing.  I do not plan to plant all 10. I think I'll plant half and give away half.

May 17
Carrots are starting to show. Maybe 20 of them.

Sunday, May 8, 2011

A Week's Worth of Planting

May 8, 2011


I am a little behind on posts, so note the dates in this one.


April 30
Planted 4 boysenberries in a double-dug bed.  I spaced them about 2 feet apart.  They are nice potted plants purchased from Portland Nursery. They have 18" stems. I haven't taken any pictures yet but will post some soon. Before planting I spread about 5 lbs of Alfalfa Meal on the bed and mixed it in 2 inches deep.

"Down to Earth" Alfalfa Meal, (2.5% N, 1% Phosphate, 1% Potash)

Double-dug half of what I am calling Bed 1.  Bed 1 is the bed next to the raspberries and boysenberries.  I felt this one in my lower back. It tired me out a bit.

May 1
Planted 'NorthPole' Columnar Dwarf Apple tree in a 20 gallon container.  Columnar apple trees have short (6") branches and are suitable for containers.  I am following "McGee & Stuckey's the bountiful container : a container garden of vegetables, herbs, fruits and edible flowers" for advice on growing fruit trees in containers.  Powells sited this book at the go-to reference for container gardening.


NorthPole Columnar Dwarf Apple Tree

  • Planted in 20 gallon container with NuLife Organic Moisture Control Container Mix
  • Ripens early (Sept)
  • Lg bright red fruit
  • $44.75 at Portland Nursery
  • Hardy to -20F
Planted 'Scarlet Sentinel' Columnar Dwarf Apple Tree
  • M7 root stock
  • Green blush red fruit
  • $34.99 from Portland Nursery
  • Planted with NuLife Organic Moisture Control Container Mix

May 4
Planted Valencia Onions in South end of Bed 1.
  • Harvest early as bunching onion
  • Harvest later as cooking onion
  • Harvest last for storage
  • 4-6" bulbs
  • mild-sweet
  • 105-130 days
  • $3.95 for 6 clumps @ Naomi's
Planted Red Cippolini onions in the Boysenberry bed. There is lots of room here because the Boysenberries are small and there is room for some onions.
  • 75-105 days
  • mild full flavor
  • storage onion
  • Harvest when skin turns and tops fall over
  • Cure in sun for 1 week before storing
Planted broccoli and cauliflower in Bed 1 next to o
  • I don't have the details. TBD
Planted Schwiezer Riesen Heirloom Snow Pea
  • planted seeds 1/2" deep
  • planted about 2 " apart in hexagon formation
  • 5-14 days to germination
  • Planted the whole package (1 oz)
Planted Scarlet Nantes Carrots in Bed 1 next to peas
  • broadcast the seeds over a 2.5' x 5' area.
  • might end up thinning them back quite a bit. We'll see
  • Uprising Seeds Co
  • thin to 2"
  • 10-21 days to germination @ 60-80F
Planted Oregon Sugar Pod Peas in pots
  • Jason got these from a PTA fundraiser thingy at Burgerville.
  • Planted them in pots at the house so Jason could enjoy
  • planted 4 seeds per pot in 5 pots
Planted Misty Souther High Bush on the East side of the house. Bought this 1 gallon blueberry at Portland Nursery
  • Mid/Late variety
  • grows 3' H x 3' W

May 7
Dug up onions and planted properly. I'm such a dork I thought that maybe the onions I bought were supposed to be planted in clumps!  So I dug them up and pulled apart the individual onion stems and planted them 2" apart in Bed 1

May 8
Planted Chives in the 'NorthPole' Apple tree container

Planted some leftover broccoli and cauliflower in containers at the house. Why not?

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

GROW BIOINTENSIVE Double-Dig method

April 27, 2011

Grit your teeth. You are not going to like what I am about to explain because it is all work and no play. The GROW BIOINTENSIVE method requires proper soil preparation before first crops are planted. Proper prep means loosening the soil and composting it at the same time.  I am not going to talk about fertilizing until later because that comes last.

Apparently composting is CRITICAL to building good soil and necessary, even in the Willamette Valley. GROW BIOINTENSIVE claims 2X to 3X returns on garden output if their methods are followed. They don't make this claim for first year gardens. Or second. Or third. I think you see where this is going. Building soil is a long-term process. I think my garden soil is pretty sound. In fact, I tested it and found it to have a pH of 7.0, a high presence of Potassium and Phosphorus and a poor showing for Nitrogen.  Composting is fertilizing. Yes, well-cured compost will build good soil as it has all of the nutrients needed by a vegetable garden, but if you are starting off from scratch as I am, it is going to take a few years for composting to be sufficient. Until then, additional source of nitrogen will be added.

The process of Double-Digging garden beds involves loosening the soil to a depth of 24" and mixing in 2 inches of compost evenly throughout.  This is called the Complete Texturizing Double-Dig and is only done once when preparing beds the first year. Don't get too excited, though, the second year is better but not much!

Complete Texturing Double-Dig method, "How to Grow More Vegetables", John Jeavons


Hopefully you can read the text in the image. The image shows a 5x10 foot bed from the side, ground level. The first step is to spread 1 inch of compost over the bed and, using a 4 or 5 tined pitchfork, turn it in to a depth of 12" or the depth of the pitchfork, whichever is shallower.

The trench in Step 4  runs 5 feet long, by 1 foot wide by 1 foot deep. You dig that out with a square-headed shovel (made for digging trenches!) and put the dirt into a wheelbarrow or whatever. Next you add 1 inch of compost to the trench and, using a 4 or 5 tined pitchfork, turn the soil in the bottom of the trench to a depth of 12 inches or the depth of the pitchfork, whichever is shallower.

Tired yet?  : )  Wait, there's more!  You take a step back and dig another 5x1x1 foot trench, shoveling the dirt on top of the first trench.  The trick here is to keep the soil from falling back into your new trench, so expect to pile it up high. Now you put another 1 inch of compost in the new trench and turn that in.

Keep going until you drop dead.

I tried this last weekend on a 10 foot x 4 foot bed that was tilled last year to a depth of probably 18". The soil wasn't too bad. Not compacted really.  I progressed at the rate of 5 feet per hour. Granted I ran 8 miles through Forest Park that very morning and yes I did have 3 or 4 Margaritas at Grandma Shirley's house (they  were weak ones. It was Easter brunch). Still, this is real digging so best be prepared.

I plan to Complete Texturize the remaining 300 square feet of garden this spring. That's about another 10-12 hours of digging maybe. Depends on how many Grandma Shirley drinks I knock back first!