Wednesday, April 27, 2011

GROW BIOINTENSIVE Double-Dig method

April 27, 2011

Grit your teeth. You are not going to like what I am about to explain because it is all work and no play. The GROW BIOINTENSIVE method requires proper soil preparation before first crops are planted. Proper prep means loosening the soil and composting it at the same time.  I am not going to talk about fertilizing until later because that comes last.

Apparently composting is CRITICAL to building good soil and necessary, even in the Willamette Valley. GROW BIOINTENSIVE claims 2X to 3X returns on garden output if their methods are followed. They don't make this claim for first year gardens. Or second. Or third. I think you see where this is going. Building soil is a long-term process. I think my garden soil is pretty sound. In fact, I tested it and found it to have a pH of 7.0, a high presence of Potassium and Phosphorus and a poor showing for Nitrogen.  Composting is fertilizing. Yes, well-cured compost will build good soil as it has all of the nutrients needed by a vegetable garden, but if you are starting off from scratch as I am, it is going to take a few years for composting to be sufficient. Until then, additional source of nitrogen will be added.

The process of Double-Digging garden beds involves loosening the soil to a depth of 24" and mixing in 2 inches of compost evenly throughout.  This is called the Complete Texturizing Double-Dig and is only done once when preparing beds the first year. Don't get too excited, though, the second year is better but not much!

Complete Texturing Double-Dig method, "How to Grow More Vegetables", John Jeavons


Hopefully you can read the text in the image. The image shows a 5x10 foot bed from the side, ground level. The first step is to spread 1 inch of compost over the bed and, using a 4 or 5 tined pitchfork, turn it in to a depth of 12" or the depth of the pitchfork, whichever is shallower.

The trench in Step 4  runs 5 feet long, by 1 foot wide by 1 foot deep. You dig that out with a square-headed shovel (made for digging trenches!) and put the dirt into a wheelbarrow or whatever. Next you add 1 inch of compost to the trench and, using a 4 or 5 tined pitchfork, turn the soil in the bottom of the trench to a depth of 12 inches or the depth of the pitchfork, whichever is shallower.

Tired yet?  : )  Wait, there's more!  You take a step back and dig another 5x1x1 foot trench, shoveling the dirt on top of the first trench.  The trick here is to keep the soil from falling back into your new trench, so expect to pile it up high. Now you put another 1 inch of compost in the new trench and turn that in.

Keep going until you drop dead.

I tried this last weekend on a 10 foot x 4 foot bed that was tilled last year to a depth of probably 18". The soil wasn't too bad. Not compacted really.  I progressed at the rate of 5 feet per hour. Granted I ran 8 miles through Forest Park that very morning and yes I did have 3 or 4 Margaritas at Grandma Shirley's house (they  were weak ones. It was Easter brunch). Still, this is real digging so best be prepared.

I plan to Complete Texturize the remaining 300 square feet of garden this spring. That's about another 10-12 hours of digging maybe. Depends on how many Grandma Shirley drinks I knock back first!

4th: Bulgarian Carrot Chilis

April 27, 2011

The first Bulgarian Carrot Chili seeds germinated last night. So the final germination calendar looks like this:

  • April 12 - Initial seed tray setup and planting
  • April 16 - Moved seedlings indoors to assure 70+ degree environment
  • April 22 - New Mexico 64 Long peppers first germinate (10 days)
  • April 24 - Jalapeno Peppers first germination (12 Days)
  • April 26 - Big Jim Peppers first germination (14 Days)
  • April 27 - Bulgarian Carrot first germination (15 days)

BTW > It should be noted that the last frost of Spring 2011 appears to be April 19.  I am using the last frost date as a milestone for scheduling my garden this year.  For instance, even though I missed the starting gun for starting my seedlings for spring/early summer planting, I am right on schedule for starting cucumbers, watermelons, and basil.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Big Jim is Third

April 26, 2011


And coming in third are the Big Jim Chili Peppers.  I saw the first sign of germination today after work.

  • April 12 - Initial seed tray setup and planting
  • April 16 - Moved seedlings indoors to assure 70+ degree environment
  • April 22 - New Mexico 64 Long peppers first germinate (10 days)
  • April 24 - Jalapeno Peppers first germination (12 Days)
  • April 26 - Big Jim Peppers first germination (14 Days)

Very good. One thing I have noticed while trying to regulate the temperature: Maintaining the water level in the bottom of the seedtray helps keep the temperature up. I'm thinking that it is easier for the heating pad to keep the water bath at temp which in turn keeps the soil at temp as compared to the heating pad trying to keep the soil temp up through a half inch air pocket.



Monday, April 25, 2011

GROW BIOINTENSIVE

April 25, 2011

I am geeking on a new gardening book I was gifted this winter:  "How to Grow More Vegetables".  The title sounds innocuous enough, but the agenda of the book is really about building soil in order to maximize the output of the home gardener.

This book might be the most pragmatic reference I have ever read on gardening. It contains a wealth of information that is new to me.  My step-mother, Nancy, gave me this book and it is a GOLD MINE. I am so impressed with it I am adopting its methods this year. My faith is justified, I think, because the advice boils down to effort: How much effort to expend on preparing beds, to plan, to compost, and to record. Frankly, when a book tries to sell me great results with minimal effort I run away from the snake oil salesmen.

The GROW BIOINTENSIVE method is adovated by Ecology Action. They have some very real-world concerns about the current state of the worlds farmable land:

  • Because of population growth, pollution of water sources, and greater use of water for industry, by 2050 each person on the Earth will have only 25% of the water that was available in 1950. Current agricultural practices use 80% of the Earth’s available water.
  • There may be as little as 40 years of farmable soil remaining globally. For every pound of food eaten, 6 to 24 pounds of soil are lost due to water and wind erosion, as the result of agricultural practices,
  • 95% of the seed varieties ever grown in agriculture are now virtually extinct. Much of this is due to the growing of relatively few crops, and the frequent use of hybrid seeds for the crops that are grown. Seeds that are no longer used soon lose their viability and are rarely available.
  • Global warming may cut agricultural production in half within as little as 20 years. In February, 2004, the Observer in the United Kingdom reported that climate change is a greater threat to the world than terrorism.
  • With supplies of petroleum and natural gas running out, conventional agriculture—heavily dependent on these resources—will become more expensive, raising food prices accordingly. As natural gas to make inexpensive nitrogen fertilizer is depleted, it may take significantly more land to grow the same amount of food, when conventional agricultural practices are used.
  • The number of farmers globally keeps decreasing. In the US, only 2/5 of 1% of the population now farm. Many people would like to farm but are unable to afford the land and equipment current wisdom says is necessary for a farm to be economically viable. Other farmers have been forced off their land due to heavy competition from globalization and subsidized food. As farmers go out of business, their skills—often passed down through millennia—are also lost to the world. Once thriving communities that served rural populations deteriorate and die as farmers leave.
The main points of the GROW BIOINTENSIVE method focus on:

    • Double-Dug, Raised Beds
    • Composting
    • Intensive Planting
    • Companion Planting
    • Carbon Farming
    • Calorie Farming
    • The Use of Open-Pollinated Seeds
    • A Whole-System Farming Method
So I am in Stage 1: Double-digging my beds. Its alot of work. But my labor is free. In short, the method means that a first-time bed preparation involves mixing 1 inch of compost into the top 12" of soil and mixing another 12" of compost into the 12"-24" of topsoil. How do you do that? Well, that's for the next post where I will scan a page or two from the book and show the method. The bottom line is that you sweat.

Next up: Jalapenos. Planted lettuce and spinach

I saw yesterday that my Jalepenos started germinating. These are the second of 4 chili pepper sets to start germinating. The New Mexico 64 Longs are nearly all up now. Hopefully I'll see alot more action soon from the Big Jim's and Hungarian Carrot Chilis. The idea is to germinate the seeds and keep them in the seed trays until they are about 3-4 inches tall, then transplant them into 4" starter pots.

I scored free 4" pots at Portland Nursery yesterday. Turns out they have a recycling center in their East parking lot and they don't mind customers rifling through the bins to find and take home pots.  I have done this a few times when looking for accessory pots for various reasons.

I also did some reasonably good gardening this weekend:

  • Double-dug a 5 foot bed for a new set of Boysenberries
  • Double-dug a 6 foot bed at the house and planted lettuce and spinach
  • Purchased 2 Columnar apple trees, lettuce, spinach, four Blueberries, and four Boysenberries

Saturday, April 23, 2011

First Germination

April 22, 2011

The first seedlings came up Thursday. The New Mexico 64 Long's sprouted 2 seeds. Nice. I planted the seeds on April 12, 9 days ago.  I expected 10-14 days, so this is right in line.  The soil appeared to be overly wet under the plastic so I removed it. I needed to once the seeds germinated anyway.  It caused the soil temp to drop a little so I changed the heating pad from medium to hot.

Wee little sprouts

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Start Seedlings Indoors

April 16, 2011

Well, my seedlings didn't experience a good start.  The setup wasn't working because I couldn't get the soil temperature up to 72 degrees. No heat, no germination. The shop where I had my initial setup has an ambient temperature of about 45-50 degrees. Damn if this isn't a cold spring in Oregon!

So today I moved my setup into my basement. The ambient temperature in that room is about 66 degrees. The temperature came right up to 76 degrees no problem. Also, I heard from Nancy about my initial setup.  Turns out it is not necessary to poke holes in the plastic. There is plenty of oxygen in the soil. She also advised that I move the halogen lights down to about 10 inches above the seed tray. Alrighty then.

4-16-2011 Seed Tray Setup - Soil Temp is 72 degrees



I also brewed beer last week with my work colleague Todd.  Below is a batch of Todd's Pale Ale (left) and a batch of my Bull Run IPA (right) fermenting away. Peppers and beer. Heh. Maybe I'll make chili beer this fall after harvest!



Brew Bro's Pale Ale and Bull Run IPA. Drinkable June 1

Weeds be gone!

April 16, 2011

I have a 400 square foot garden over at Brentwood Communitry Garden.  The garden is managed by the Parks & Rec Department of Portland. For a fee of $75 per year I lease the plot and work the garden.  I helped install the garden last year for it's inaugural season.  The 2010 harvest was okay, but not great. As all Portlanders recall, it was a long, late spring and was cold till mid-July. Just not a great growing climate for warm-season vegetables.

So on to this year.  Today, I visited the garden and found surprisingly few weeds in the garden. Not bad at all.  It  took me about an hour to week out all 400 sq feet. Nice!

Also of note, my 10 foot run of raspberry bushes exploded.  I planted four clumps last spring.  They did okay but didn't bear much fruit. Raspberries are an interesting plant.  First year canes do not bear fruit. So the first year long canes stretch out from the center and then get kinda woody over the off-season.  These woody canes are the fruit-bearing stems of the following year. There are about 20 good first year canes, maybe more.  There are about a hundred 2011 canes coming up.  So I'm off to do a little research and decide how much to thin out my first year canes.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

2011 Pepper Seeds started today

Tuesday April 12, 2011

Hah! Finally got my chili seeds planted today.  Nancy Culley gave me 4 seed varieties:


Big Jim organic Chili Pepper
harvested 2010
Premium Chili Pepper!

Jalapeno - organic 
harvested 2010











Bulgarian Carrot Chili
Medium Hot Chili
Seeds from "Totally Tomatoes"
First year trying these
                       New Mexico 6-4 Long                      
organic, harvested in 2010
Good for Roasting or drying. Alittle milder
than Big Jim

















To plant, I bought a bag of Seed Mix and a starter tray from 7-Dees. I filled all of the holes in the tray except two with soil. The two holes are for pouring water into the bottom of the tray.  Nancy advises, "Make sure to water from the bottom - just lightly spray the top of the tray - this will encourage the seedlings to develop good deep roots."

Seedling tray

I bought the cheapest thermometer I could find and stuck it in the soil (the left column is not planted). Underneath the tray is my wife Michelle's heating pad and over the top (not shown) is a fluorescent shop light about 2 feet from the tray.  The goal is to germinate the peppers at around 75 degrees.  If the heating pad raises the temp too high I plan to add rails underneath the tray to raise off the heating pad.  Oh yeah, I laid down a sheet of plastic (heating pad underneath) to keep water spray off  my bench.

Tomorrow I will put plastic over the top and poke holes in each box area to let a little air and water in.